NC500 and beyond
The North Coast 500 (NC500) is a scenic driving route that loops around the northern coast of Scotland. Often dubbed "Scotland's Route 66", it spans approximately 516 miles (830 kilometres) and offers breathtaking landscapes, historic landmarks, and charming villages.
We hired a VW California for this trip, which we found perfect—even with two adults and two dogs. It was by far our favourite trip we've ever done, and we can't recommend it enough to anyone, with dogs or without.
We completed the NC500 (minus the final stretch—as explained later) in seven days. Having dogs with us meant we weren't able to explore quite as much as we'd have liked, but we found seven days long enough to cover the basics. However, if we were to do it again, we would probably spread it over ten days. As we were coming from the south-east coast of England, we had to leave two days ahead of our start date in order to stop in Carlisle overnight, then continue on to Stirling where we dropped off our car and collected the van, before making a final trip to Loch Ness before starting the route.
There are two routes you can take—clockwise or anti-clockwise. We did it anti-clockwise, heading up the east coast first. This is the most common route people take and the one we'd definitely recommend if it's your first time doing the route, as it gets progressively more isolated the further along you go.
How to Prepare:
We mapped out our route, food costs, fuel costs, and activities in advance, so we knew exactly where we needed to end up each day. We roughly kept it to a minimum of two hours’ driving between the locations where we stayed overnight. We aimed to spend every other night in a campsite to allow for a shower, rubbish drop, and restock. On nights we weren't at a campsite, we used the app Park4night, which we found incredibly useful for locating lay-bys and parking spots. Some people allowed parking in their driveways or pub car parks for a small fee, while many stops were lay-bys or isolated car parks. We had no issues and found suitable places every night we wild camped. Wild camping is fairly relaxed in Scotland, but there’s a strict leave no trace policy, and you’re asked to keep a reasonable distance from houses and businesses—unless permission is given.
It’s good to note that once you reach the most northerly parts of the mainland, civilisation becomes sparse and phone signal patchy. Another key point is that the roads become very narrow the further into the Highlands you get, with many large vehicles due to the popularity of the area for campervans. We never encountered traffic jams, and the roads were mostly clear, but there are some tight corners that may be tricky for nervous drivers.
We’d also recommend stocking up on long-lasting food (pastas, cupboard items) as shops become increasingly scarce. We had a small fridge in our campervan, but non-perishables are essential. Also, stock up on baby wipes, tissues, and hand sanitiser.
We had heard horror stories about midges in Scotland—especially in rural areas—but we had no issues at all. However, we do advise bringing tick repellent and tweezers for both humans and dogs, as ticks were a problem on this trip.
Weather-wise, we had mostly perfect weather. It's definitely worth bringing raincoats and warm clothes, as it did get very windy and cold at times.
The Route:
Night One:
After picking up the campervan in Stirling, we headed to Loch Ness, where we spent our first night in the van. It was the most surreal experience waking up next to Loch Ness. We parked in a lay-by we had found on Park4night and were the only ones there. It was a large lay-by with direct access down to a small beach on the edge of the loch, where we were able to walk the dogs along the loch's banks. Swimming is strongly advised against due to the depth and low temperatures. A lovely ranger stopped by to welcome us to Scotland and gave us a wild camping in Scotland pamphlet, which we found handy for understanding the rules—you can usually find this online.
Day One/Night Two:
After leaving Loch Ness, we headed into Inverness to pick up food and essentials for the next few days. Being the last city before the NC500 begins, it's worth making sure you have everything you may need at this point. After stocking up, we drove towards Chanonry Point, renowned for its pod of dolphins. It didn’t take long for us to spot them in the bay—they put on quite a show! You can see them relatively close from the beach. There is a car park here, but it’s very small with limited space for campervans. Still, it’s well worth a visit if you can manage it.
Rob, being a craft beer lover, found the Black Isle Brewing Company en route and we stopped so he could pick up some beer and a souvenir glass. After this, we headed to Fairy Glen Falls to give the dogs their first proper walk and explore a bit of the Highlands. Located near Rosemarkie on the Black Isle, Fairy Glen Falls is a serene waterfall set in lush woodland. The 1.5-mile round-trip trail offers scenic views, wildlife spotting, and tranquil pools. Named after local folklore, it’s ideal for a peaceful nature walk and photography. There's a small car park at the trailhead—we had no trouble finding a space, but it could be tricky at peak times.
For our second night, we found several lay-bys along the edge of Loch Fleet. A number of other campers were parked up here, so although isolated, we weren’t completely alone. This was one of our favourite wild camping spots due to the incredible variety of wildlife. A colony of seals basked on a sandbank just across from where we parked—amazing to see. They would often swim past the lay-by to check out the vans. We also spotted various bird species, including an osprey hunting for fish. As amateur photographers, this was a fantastic opportunity to get some shots.
Day Two/Night Three:
We continued north to the town of Dornoch, known for its stunning beach—and it didn’t disappoint. A long golden-orange sandy stretch with crystal clear (and very cold!) water. The dogs had a great run and play here. Dornoch is small but has several amenities and a large car park. Definitely grab a hot chocolate from Cocoa Mountain afterwards—it was a winner.
After exploring Dornoch, we headed to Carn Liath near Golspie. This Iron Age broch features drystone walls, ancient chambers, and settlement remains. There was no one else around, so we enjoyed exploring at our own pace. It’s not huge but fascinating, with small rooms you can enter. There’s parking almost directly opposite, though you do need to cross a fairly busy road. Well worth the stop.
Next, we made our way up to John O’Groats and stayed at the John O’Groats Caravan and Camping Site. It’s a large site, so even though it was busy, we had no trouble finding a pitch. The facilities were basic but clean, with hot showers, toilets, and laundry—though these broke while we were there. The reception also doubles as a small shop for essentials. We parked on the cliff edge, which was incredibly windy but offered stunning views across the sea towards the Orkney Islands. We kept an eye out for orcas (they’re sometimes spotted here), but no luck this time.
John O’Groats is the last easily accessible stop with shops and cafés, though it's a very small village with limited options. Naturally, Rob found another brewery and picked up another souvenir glass.
Day Three/Night Four:
We took a wildlife boat trip from the John O’Groats port along the coast—it’s dog friendly and lasts a couple of hours. We spotted more seals and several birds, but the coastline and dramatic rock stacks were the highlight. Highly recommended if you have time.
After the boat trip, we walked along the coastline to stretch the dogs’ legs. Then we headed west towards Dunnet Head, the northernmost point of mainland UK. There's a lighthouse and a walkway to a viewpoint where you can spot seabirds, including puffins. The pay-and-display car park is a decent size.
We continued west to Durness, where we found a spot listed on Park4night at the end of a drive. The owner asked for a £10 donation per night, which we left in a box at the entrance. There was space for about five campervans—it was secluded and peaceful, though without amenities. A great overnight stop.
Day Four / Night Five:
We headed a few minutes down the road towards Smoo Cave—a unique sea cave shaped by both sea and rainwater erosion. It’s known for its massive entrance, inner waterfall, and ties to Viking legends. There are steps all the way down, which are relatively steep and windy, however well-formed. The cave itself is very interesting—you’re able to walk into it and explore a small cavern with a waterfall inside. It’s worth checking tide times beforehand, as it can be quite dangerous if the tide comes in. There’s a very small car park at the top, along with some public toilets.\
We then continued towards Achmelvich Beach, crossing the iconic NC500 landmark, the Kylesku Bridge—another must-see on the route! The beach was incredible. Despite the cold water and grey skies when we visited, you’d think you were in the Caribbean. The water was a stunning blue and crystal clear, and the sand beautifully white. The dogs had a fantastic time playing in the water. It really is just as beautiful as the photos. There’s a reasonably sized car park near the beach.
We spent the night at Clachtoll Beach Campsite, which was fantastic with great amenities. You're assigned a pitch, rather than choosing your own. Although the pitches are quite close together, we still had plenty of space. What made this campsite really special was its beachside location and the opportunity to use their body boards and kayaks. We were unfortunately hit with a storm during our stay, but we’d still say this is an absolute must-visit. There was also a small shack called Flossies that sold food, drinks, groceries and other bits—we made lots of use of it!
Day Five / Night Six:
After leaving the campsite, we headed towards Ullapool, stopping at Stac Pollaidh en route. We recommend checking the weather before doing this hike—although it’s not a particularly long one, the conditions can change dramatically and quickly. The views are absolutely stunning, even from halfway up. The path is relatively well maintained most of the way, though it gets rockier the higher you go. We found it too tricky to reach the top with the dogs, but it was still well worth it for the view.
After our hike, we continued on to our next wild camping spot. We found an absolute gem for dinner in the small village of Gairloch—The Black Pearl Creole Kitchen. If you like Caribbean food, the jerk chicken was a standout for us. This was also the first place we came across a small supermarket to top up our supplies.
Continuing south towards Ratagan, we stopped to take photos of Eilean Donan Castle—a well-known photography spot with a large car park right next to it. The castle is a 13th-century fortress in the Scottish Highlands, built on a small island where three lochs meet. Once a stronghold of Clan Mackenzie, it was destroyed in 1719 and later restored in the 20th century. It’s now one of Scotland’s most iconic landmarks. We didn’t go inside, but the dramatic scenery made it a perfect photo stop.
We parked up for the night just beyond Ratagan, in a car park along the Old Military Road. Several other campers were wild camping there too. The views from this particular stop were incredible, looking out over a loch towards the surrounding mountains.
Day Six / Night Seven:
Our final full day saw us heading towards Fort William. We left the NC500 at this point, choosing to head towards Ben Nevis rather than loop back to Inverness. Fort William was the first large town we had visited since Day Two—it had large supermarkets, cafés and restaurants, and is surrounded by the Grampian mountain range, which centres around Ben Nevis, the UK’s tallest mountain.
Near Fort William, you’ll find several Harry Potter filming locations—a must for fans. We started at Loch Shiel, used as the iconic Black Lake in the films. Further along is Loch Eilt, with a small island at the western end that was used for Dumbledore’s grave. It was a little tricky to find parking, but there’s a small lay-by just beside it.
You can also visit the Glenfinnan Viaduct—the famous railway bridge featured as the route for the Hogwarts Express. The Jacobite train (used in the films) crosses twice a day. Parking here was incredibly difficult, and although we tracked the train times, it didn’t pass while we were there. However, the viaduct is still well worth a visit—if you can find a space!
Back towards Fort William, we took the Nevis Range mountain gondola. It’s dog friendly and takes you up the north face of Aonach Mòr. At the top, there’s a café with both indoor and outdoor seating, and both are dog friendly. You can see the summit of Ben Nevis from here, and there’s a short walk to the peak of Aonach Mòr.
We spent our final night at Glen Nevis Campsite, a large site with multiple pitches—both with and without electric hook-up. There are great walks for dogs, plenty of toilets, showers and laundry facilities, and even a designated dog exercising area (although it isn’t fenced in—just a large patch of grass). There’s also an on-site shop and café. Surrounded by mountains, this site was truly stunning. The campsite also hosts various activities (such as mountain hikes), although we didn’t try any as this was our final stop. We’d highly recommend this campsite for its location and facilities—but be aware if you have a reactive dog, as the pitches are quite close together and there are lots of dogs and children around.
Final Day:
We headed back towards Stirling to drop off the campervan and picked up our car to begin the journey home.
Camper van hire and Campsites
- Camper van hire: We rented our camper van from Cool Camper van Hire Scotland after being recommended them by a friend. They were fantastic the whole time and we'd absolutely recommend them and would use them again. They have a number of pick up locations, but we found Stirling to be the best location for us. We hired a VW California and that was perfect for us and two dogs. https://www.coolcampervanhirescotland.co.uk/
- John O'Groats Campsite: https://www.johnogroatscampsite.co.uk/
- Clachtoll Beach Campsite: https://www.clachtollbeachcampsite.com/
- Glen Nevis Campsite: https://www.glen-nevis.co.uk/campsite
Rating: 10/10
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